Bosnia-Herzegovina

War torn buildings in Mostar

Peace Bridge rebuilt

Restaurant

Our local guide discused the damaged and repaired buildings from the war of 1993 and the ancient history of the area. Some repair was paid by individuals, other was sponsored by other counrties. Property owned by Serbs was not repaired and they aren’t coming back. Serbs can’t get the government approvals to rebuild. We cross the pretty river dividing the town. We pass a small park now a cemetery that serves as a permanent reminder of the recent war. It was also expedient as it was not safe to use the cemetery on the open hill side during the war. We visit a fully furnished Turkish home, turned into a museum to hear about that type of life. Next we visit a mosque for another lecture. While Dale and I took pictures of the Peace Bridge the light was changing with the dark clouds, as thunder and light rain arrived. We saw kayakers paddle up the river against strong current. We walked to the Peace Bridge and the real rain hit. We ran for shelter. The rain must have dropped the temperature 20 degree and kept coming down. Since dinner was not ready, we were on our own for an hour. We found the restaurant and had a beer while we wait. The restaurant serves outside. The rain stopped in 30 minutes, giving us time to look around the area and for the restaurant to wipe off the tables and seats.
The group gathered at the Peace Bridge. They had just made a pot of €25  for a young man to dive off the bridge into the river. Then we had another fine meal seated on outside balconies over a tributary to the river. Start was a filo-wrapped sausage stuff. The salad was the now familiar tomato, cucumber and slaw. Stuffed yellow peppers and stuffed grape leaves were the main dish. We received a cookie soaked in syrup used for baklava for dessert. The beer was the best price on the trip.

The next morning we explore the town on our own. We visited a free photo gallery with very graphic images of the “bridge” before, during and restored. It was amazing to see the pile of rubble and know we walked over the restored bridge. Obviously it was important to restore this commercial and history area as a first priority. Unfortunately the apartment buildings and businesses away from the river do not seem to be benefitting from the rebuilding effort. We were to meet the bus at the Church of Sts. Peter & Paul, under the extremely tall bell tower.

We now head south through the Serbian area of rugged mountains. Most of the signs in this area are in Cyrillic. Our guide Renee has made friends with some Serbs and they have arranged a picnic for us. We have not had a Serbian perspective on this whole conflict mess – so we were interested to hear their view.  Jola started reading other material that Renee had on the bus and found out that one of the Serbian atrocities was separating the Muslim women from the men and boys and then taking the 8,000 males away and massacring them. So we pass many, many destroyed farms and homes. We arrive at an outdoor restaurant to see a lamb roasting on a spit, but it was not for us. A massive spread was laid out buffet style – wow! The amazing Serb bread, a donut type of bread, deviled eggs, a homemade cream cheese spread, a fermented bulgar wheat paste, the best yet filo wrapped cheese things. Some dried beef and pork and of course the tomato cheese cabbage salad. We were stuffed. Then a short drive out into the farming countryside to see an Orthodox Church and grave yard.

There were discussions with the school teacher/translator about education that drew the interest of the women. This young lady had left Mostar when she was 13 years old. When they went back to the apartment they owned it had been stripped of everything – fixtures – pipes – electrical outlets. They found someone to buy it – no thoughts of going back again. The youth activities director worked in a government position. He visits many countries and uses English as a common language. The Government alternates every six months between a Serb and a Croate for President under the dirrection of the U.N. This limited stability impacts his goals. He was not sure where his country would be in five years. He tried to explain the difference between orthodox and catholic. Here he reverted to his Serbian language and the girl translated. Basically it was the infallibility of the pope for the Catholics and the unacceptance of this by the orthodox. The tiny orthodox church was covered with paintings and did not have any seats. We had to back out under the low door to show respect. There was a cemetery surrounding the church. Many deaths occurred in 1942 and 1992. The later were not soldiers, but local villagers. We said good bye to the new Serb friends and continued our journey.

Picnic

Serbians

Cemetery

Countryside

Family

Harvest